The race for the “worlds thinnest” was long associated with Piaget and Bulgari, until since last year two outsiders joined the quest for the ultimate. From 2.00 mm to 1.65 in 6 years. Let’s see how the top 5 looks like.
5) Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept- 2018: 2.0 millimetres
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept was launched in Geneva in 2018 and a logical culmination of the brands expertise in building thin watches. Already in 1957 Piaget introduced a calibre that was a mere 2 mm. in height, and one can see that for a jewellery brand like Piaget thin watches are not only a matter of technological advancement but also of elegance.
The Altiplano Ultimate Concept is in the current collection, available in various versions and all made in very small quantities, starting at around CHF 400,000.
4) Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra -2022: 1.8 mm.
Another jewellery originated watchmaker with strong ambitions on being the “thinnest” is Bulgari. In 2022 the Octo Finissimo Ultra was unveiled with a 40mm titanium case of only 1.8mm thick. As NFT’s were still a big thing two years ago, the was was engraved with a unique QR-code linking to some virtual experience. As if this impressive masterpiece would any digital additions.. 10 pieces were made at CHF 427,000 each.
3) Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari- 2023: 1.75 mm.
Less than a year after Bulgaria’s masterpiece Richard Mille took over the prime position with their amazing RM UP-01 Ferrari. The credit card-like design raised some eyebrows here and there, but it is definitely unique and a great conversation piece. Baseplate and bridges are made of a grade 5 titanium alloy material and can withstand accelerations of over 5,000 G’s. Carlos Sainz jr. will not have to worry when he corners his Ferrari Formula 1 workhorse with the RM on his wrist. Richard Mille announced that 150 would be made at a price of around CHF 1,5 million each.
2) Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC- 2024: 1.70 mm.
One can imagine that the launch of the Richard Mille made sure that all leaves in the Bulgari R&D department were cancelled. That virtual trophy needed to be reclaimed, and the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC was launched in April this year. Only 1.70 mm thick, and the fact that it now goes by 100’s of a millimetre indicates how close brands are getting to the ultimate of what is possible. After all, essential elements of a movement still needs to be included, and working properly. And Bulgari succeeded again, and the COSC certification indicates that it’s not only a prototype but a watch functioning to the highest standards. 20 will be made at CHF 600,000 each.
1) Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing- 2024: 1.65 mm.
And then it became August 29, and Konstantin Chaykin invited us journalists for a breakfast during Geneva Watch Days. The ThinKing was shown, a watch only 1.65mm thick. Visually and technically the watch is completely different, as we might expect from artisan genius Chaykin. The watch shows hours and minutes in two different windows and combined with the makers name functioning as a mouth it’s alike the Joker in looks. Technically Chaykin managed to reduce the height by splitting the balance wheel architecture. There is so much to say about this, I recommend the introduction article on Monochrome for more detail.
The ThinKing is a technical tour de force, although it’s still a prototype, not production ready let alone COSC-certified, and in that perspective not really comparable with the Bulgari. However, it will make people at Bulgari ThinKing again on how to regain the top spot again. With 4 records in less than three years, maybe April 2025 would be a good moment to call for a 1.50 mm. watch?
